Plastic hunting is a box in cosmetics

Not happy to have turned the beauty market to organic and natural ingredients, young cosmetics brands now demand a global approach, from the formulation to the bottle.After the parabens, here they sound the plastic hallali.Like What Matters who is trying to impose rechargeable glass containers in the bathrooms, since September."The philosophy of our brand is to be without compromise: beautiful and healthy products, which we use for pleasure but respecting the environment", summarize in unison Charlotte Catton and Franck Ladouce, co -founders of What Matters.

In barely eight months, their elegant shower bottles filled with shower gel, toothpaste and shampoos with organic formulas and "yuka-compatibles" achieved 1.5 million euros in turnover on their merchant site.Admittedly, the ecorechanges to fill the bottle are still made of multilayer plastic, therefore not recyclable.But the team considers that the equation remains winning for the planet, due to the low weight of the recharge: less than 7 grams, 80 % less than a classic dispute container.At the end of 2021, the refills will always be as light but finally recyclable."There is no perfect ecology solution, we try to be the most honest and transparent possible and take consumers as far as they will follow: first on the rechargeable and perhaps, tomorrow, on dilute products, ”says Charlotte Catton.The duo, who met on the Edhec benches, aims at 6 million euros in turnover next year.

A reusable container

The project seems daring but, in this dynamic sector, the rapid evolution of consumption methods opens a boulevard for the "Indies", these small independent brands to which consumers more easily grant their confidence.Success can be dazzling, like that as before.In less than four years, the family business that has made short formulas and Kraft packaging its fight, has opened four own stores and reached a turnover of 6 million euros."We have removed the plastic and we will never go back: we will not come out a product that would require such packaging," promises founder Sophie Lauret.

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On the specific deodorant segment, two start-ups also quickly settled on healthy formulas and a reusable container.First breathing, a brand created by Justine Hutteau and Thomas Méheut, catapulted in a few months on social networks and in large distribution.If the choice of natural ingredients has emerged the brand, the fact that its ball deo was marketed in a rechargeable bottle has enabled the concept in the landscape and widen the range with solid shampoo or shower frost.Accompanied from the start by Citeo, the recycling promotion company in France, the young shoot has been guided towards choices of more environmentally friendly packaging.Citeo notably advised breathing your shower gel ecore in a recycled plastic can, rather than in a flexible non -recyclable pocket."Thanks to solid products and rechargeable packaging, Respire saved more than three tonnes of plastic," said Justine Hutteau.

Bulk products

One year younger, wild children welcomes themselves to have put on the market "the first natural and organic deodorant, really effective and zero waste".Its model is close to the instructions, the surcharge less.After use, the bottles are recovered by the brand, cleaned and reused.Again, the argument hit the bull's eye and the success was immediate."With 8,500 presses in April 2020, our crowdfunding program was the second largest cosmetic project funded on Ulule," says William Wauters, founder of wild children.

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If the quest for the right packaging offers a multitude of paths to explore for committed entrepreneurs, all agree on an observation: the additional cost limits the arrival of competitors."In people's heads, a recharge must be more economical than the starting container.However, with equivalent quantity of filling, making a recharge costs today more than the disposable bottle, notes Charlotte Catton.This is undoubtedly one of the reasons that prevent the sector leaders from rushing on the rechargeable: this would degrade their profitability.»»An analysis shared by William Wauters."Zero waste, assures the young 28 -year -old entrepreneur, this is not a technological problem.This is a logistical question and it is less profitable than putting disposable packaging made in China on the shelf.»»

Nevertheless, the leaders could find on their way the help of another young company, Cozie.It has developed, a machine that allows you to distribute bulk care products, therefore recharge self-service bottles in store.Ultra-technical, this dozeuse reproduces the principle of a small factory, with mastery of hygiene and traceability.In addition to the marketing of its products, Cozie distributes its machine in white marque, as for Mustela and Yves Rocher. «Si notre mission était de développer les cosmétiques rechargeables et une boucle d’économie circulaire, autant embarquer des grandes marques dans cette aventure»», assure Arnaud Lancelot l’un des cofondateurs de Cozie, invité à raconter son projet par Pascale Brousse, créatrice du cabinet de conseil Trend Sourcing, sur son compte Instagram.One thing is certain, plastic hunting in cosmetics is a box.

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