L'homme Courrégés d'adjoining close the panel open panel Plume Le Figaro APP -icon-512px V1 1-style / logotypes / Le Figaro / apps / Jeux

"this is my first men's collection! My life! "exclaims Nicolas Di Felice, the artistic director of Courréges. Well, for a first time, it's a masterpiece. Another one. As early as last spring, the press unanimously greeted the Belgian stylist's very first show (woman), passed from the shadow of Nicolas Ghesquière (he officiated in his creative studio at Balenciaga and then Louis Vuitton almost twelve years old) in the light of the podiums after his appointment in 2020 to head the style of André Courréges' brand.

To read also Courréges, the rebirth of a French national treasure

This male locker room, tightened-only about fifteen silhouettes-and devilly effective is in line with that of this new woman Courréges all in legs, moulded in a Trapeze, sexy, pointed and popular mini-dress. In the video unveiled yesterday on the Internet, the same corner of an open-air white cube as decor, even electro driving as soundtrack, the same accuracy between sewing perfection and standardized shapes. "these archetypes are dear to me," he says. The first look, exactly. This parka seems to be very simple but in fact, it is a reinterpretation, in a generic manufacture, of a beautiful coat of archives with a bellows and kimono sleeves. This season, I wanted to focus my research on public outfits in festivals. I wanted to offer clothes to continue dancing even when it rains. "

On his moodboard, in the midst of a youth trance in the concert pits, a black and white cliché by André Courréges dating from 1962 in a double-buttoned caban with tiles, a sub-sweater and immaculate trousers, posing in front of his shop. Version 2022, the boy Courréges wears the emblematic vinyl jacket without sleeves, a 5 pocket trousers slightly flared and a pair of sneakers.

According to him, making the founder's retro-futuristic universe desirable today would be child's play. "it was not my ultimate dream to become DA," he continues when complimented on the strength of his message in only two collections. There are very few houses I would have felt legitimate for. But the simplicity of Courréges' purpose, form as well as substance, resonates in me. So it's true that I knew very quickly what I wanted to do. "

Nicolas Di Felice therefore unfolds the thread of his arty and accessible fashion, now adapted to man. "I read a very beautiful phrase from André Courréges: I am inspired by sport-he was passionate about sports, as we know, active wear, but above all, I work on making clothes that will make the boys who wear them look like free boys". "I've read a very beautiful phrase from André Courréges: I am inspired by sport-he was passionate about sports, as we know, of active wear, but above all, I am working on making clothes that will make the boys who wear them look like free boys". This freedom is embodied today in this fluidity of genres. "so he did not hesitate to rework the ribbed mesh suits, the longshoremen in mesh or scalpel on the girls' torso. And reveals a male version-at least ambiguous-of the small black square jacket Courréges, launched in the 1960s.